Coelia is easy to pronounce; just ignore the “o” and say “Celia” like the woman’s name. In the wild, it grows as an epiphyte or a terrestrial in rainforests up to 5000 feet (1500 m) in elevation. In cultivation, it needs frequent watering, shady conditions, and winter dormancy. This species tolerates a wide range of temps. However, it doesn’t like repotting, and extra care is needed to avoid damage to roots.

The blooms can be as large as 2 inches (5 cm,) but this plant enjoying life on my back deck has slightly smaller 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) flowers. Besides this variety, another member of the Coelia genus in the final photo has tiny white flowers. This species, Coelia triptera, was on display at a local orchid show. Like Coelia bella, it’s also fragrant.

Australian Dendrobiums, like the next 3 photos, are also popular. Many have rich fragrances. With their incredible diversity, Dendrobiums exemplify the deficiency of one-size-fits-all orchid care instructions. Some grow in hot, steamy jungles, while others grow on cold, windy mountains. As natives to a huge area, from India east to Japan, Australia, and the South Pacific, no single recipe can cover their care. However, they do share commonalities. Most want bright light with morning sun, good humidity, and winter dormancy.

Dendrobium plants come in many forms, but they most commonly have tall, thick plant stems called pseudobulbs or canes. In the next photo, lovely white and purple flowers bloom atop the canes of a Nobile type Dendrobium. Nobile types may drop all their leaves over winter, causing inexperienced growers to think a plant is dead and discard it. Ironically, some kinds flower after they drop their leaves, and their brilliant colors stand out on the bare canes. Other varieties have twisted petals or masses of brilliantly hued blooms.

There’s certainly no shortage of astonishing shapes and colors in the Dendrobium family. They’re true tropical beauties.

• Orchids with pseudobulbs are entering dormancy. If they sport swollen stems like those in the first photo below, they may only need water once or twice per month over winter. Too much water can cause rot, or mess up the plant’s flowering schedule. Cut back on fertilizer, too.
• Orchids without pseudobulbs, like Phals, Paphs, and Masdevallias, don’t go dormant. However, with seasonally lower light levels and cooler temps, it’s best to reduce their water and fertilizer slightly.
• All orchids need good humidity, but home and office heating can dry the air like an arid desert. Low humidity can cause blooms to wilt, and invite pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Find helpful tips to raise humidity here.
• Consider adding extra light to compensate for the weak winter sun.
• Members of the Cattleya family, like the red and yellow hybrid in the second photo below, may be affected by too many hours of artificial light. They require long, dark nights to trigger flowering. Keep them away from any artificial light at night.
• Remove dead leaves or flowers. This helps limit hiding places for unwelcome pests or disease.
• Don’t panic if a few older leaves wither and drop. Some varieties of Dendrobiums, like the cool grower in the final photo below, lose all their leaves. Other types, like Cycnoches, Epipactis, and Thunia, are also deciduous. Continue to give them bright light and good humidity. Water when their pseudobulbs start to shrivel, only once or twice per month.

One trick to help Cymbidiums bloom is to give them nightly temperature drops of 15-20°F (8-11°C,) especially in autumn. Without this day/night temperature difference, they won’t form flower spikes. Here on the coast, they can grow in full sun. However, growers in warmer areas should provide morning sun and afternoon shade. Plants need enough light so that leaves are light green, not dark green. Cymbidiums enjoy regular fertilizer, and they love compost. They can survive a light frost, although temps below freezing usually damage flowers.

For orchid growers in warmer climates, miniature Cymbidiums like warmer temps. These small varieties are best for growers where summertime temps stay above 70°F (21°C) at night.

• Bring warm growers indoors before temps fall too much. Take the opportunity to remove any leaf or flower debris. Check for pests, paying attention to leaf undersides and the potting media. A little prevention now can save a lot of headaches later, so I always spray with insecticidal soap before bringing orchids inside.
• Increase light levels to compensate for fall’s weakening sunlight and shorter days. Consider adding artificial light as a supplement. For all varieties, even lower-light Phals and Paphs, providing some direct morning sun can keep them happy until spring. Make any light increase gradually over 2 weeks to avoid burning leaves.
• As home and office heating systems switch on, they dry the air. Pay extra attention to maintaining high humidity. Dry air invites pests.
• Many orchids are moving into a dormant stage. Slowly reduce watering for Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Miltonias, Odonts, Oncidiums, Vandas, and any other variety with pseudobulbs. Begin to cut back on fertilizer as well.

Remember that there may be reasons why an orchid isn’t blooming, and this fun Phal fact won’t eliminate the need for bright light, regular water, good humidity, and fertilizer. Normally, cool temps can inhibit a Phal from blooming, but a limited exposure at this time of year can kick them into gear. Then you’ll have great fall colors to enjoy.

To grow this variety, place in bright light with some direct sun. Water every other day (more if it’s warm,) and keep in cool, breezy conditions. They enjoy regular fertilizer or a good dose of compost. Keep them drier during winter dormancy.

This species is native to the Andes of Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia, where it grows at elevations up to 10,500 ft. (3200  m.) At those dizzying heights, it’s no surprise that it prefers temps below 80°F (27°C.) It can survive freezes down to 25°F (-4°C,) but it’s best to avoid such cold temps for plants in cultivation.

Don’t let Cyrtochilum’s name scare you; pronouncation is easier than you might think. Say “sear tow KYE lum” to rhyme with “dear go by him.” Botanists have been debating this beauty’s place in the orchid family tree for years, so it’s sometimes labeled as an Oncidium.

Sometimes they’re baby orchids or seedlings. Often they’re packed in small pots or moss. In Costa Rica, seedlings for the national flower, Cattleya skinneri, are sold in test tubes. They’re nice souvenirs, but when the vacation’s over, you’ve got some work to do. First on the agenda is learning about your particular variety. Besides Phals, Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Arundinas. I’ve seen Epidendrums and Spathoglottis sold this way. Light and water needs are different for each type.

Next, pot if it’s necessary. Then, you may need some patience. Some kinds take as long as 7 years to mature and bloom, and that’s under ideal growing conditions. Most won’t take so long, but don’t expect instant gratification. Starter kits for Arundina, the Bamboo Orchid, contain a stem cutting to pot. These may bloom in only 2 or 3 years if you have room for a large, tropical, sun-loving orchid. No matter which variety, orchid starter kits make great living mementos of your travels.

To pronounce it, say “see-LODGE-in-ee.” This species originates in the mountains of Vietnam, where it grows in cloud forests up to 6500 ft. (2000 m) high. It can handle a wide range of temperatures. Mine lives outside all year in the San Francisco fog, and receives some direct sun.

Coelogynes like frequent waterings during spring and summer, and less during winter dormancy. They enjoy regular fertilizer, high humidity, and good air movement. Almost 200 different Coelogyne species include varieties to suit warm, intermediate, or cool climates. They’re great for beginners who are ready to try a challenge beyond hybrids.