Always use a clean, sharp scissors to prevent spreading plant diseases. Clean the blades with hot water and soap, rubbing alcohol, or bleach solution. Cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the node. Another spike may emerge beneath the cut. Its flowers will be smaller and shorter-lived than the first set.

Although this method may add a month to your blooming season, it really drains energy from the plant. In the wild, unpollinated orchids drop their flowers, and start to make energy for next year’s blossoms. When forced to rebloom, the plant uses up its energy reserves. If you’d rather keep your orchid long-term and enjoy years of flowers, I would advise you to skip this process. Instead, let your Phal return to its natural growth cycle. Cut the old flower spike as close to the plant’s base as you can without damaging nearby leaves or roots. Healthy plants will grow and produce even more flowers next year.

So how often do you water? Well, there’s no single answer. Instead it depends on several interrelated factors, like light, temperature, humidity, air movement, and what orchid variety you have. High light, hot temps, dry air, and strong winds each increase an orchid’s thirst. Warm growers like Phals, Paphs, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums will flourish with additional soakings. Always check that your flower pot drains completely, and orchid roots do not sit in water.

No orchid website or book can compete with your own observations, experience, and knowledge of local growing conditions. Pay attention, be flexible, and your orchid will reward you with amazing blooms.

By growing keikis, orchids can reproduce without flowering and seeding. Some orchid varieties are more likely to make keikis. Besides the Phal and Arundina above, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, and Vandas often produce them. Keikis are exact genetic copies of their mother plants.

While a baby orchid may seem like welcome news, it often indicates a problem with growing conditions, and it appears in lieu of flowers. Common causes include overwatering, low light, prolonged hot temps, or lack of winter dormancy. In the event of a broken flower spike, some Phals and Epidendrums grow keikis from the flower spike just below the break. The keikis then grow their own flower spikes.

Not only are keikis potential red flags, but they also have a couple of drawbacks. First, the mother orchid probably won’t bloom while nurturing the baby. If your priority is flowers, remove the keikis promptly. Second, some varieties can take as long as 7 years to mature and flower. Others may flower in just a year, even while still attached to the mother plant. If you don’t know which category your orchid falls in, you may need a lot of patience.

If you want to keep your baby orchids, leave the keikis attached until they have 2 or more leaves, and their roots are at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Depending on your orchid variety and growing conditions, that may take just a few weeks or more than a year. Cut them off the mother plant with a sterile blade, and pot them separately. Congratulations, you have a baby orchid!

Possibly the fastest growing orchid, this terrestrial replaces these tall stalks each year. New leaves emerge from the base of the previous year’s stalk (actually a pseudobulb,) and the new growth shoots up in just a few months. This species is native to the slopes of the Himalayas, and has a wide range from India east to Vietnam and north to China.

When new spring growth emerges after winter dormancy, Thunias need light watering and full sun. Too much water can rot new growth. Within a few weeks, the new stalks grow 6 inches (15 cm,) and should be moved into shadier conditions. By late spring, Thunias need heavy water and fertilizer to mimic the Indian Ocean monsoon in their native homes. After blooms that last a couple weeks, leaves turn yellow in the early autumn. At this point, watering and fertilizing should be reduced to a minimum. I keep this specimen cool and dry in winter, watering as seldom as once a month to keep the stalks from shriveling too much. If these varying seasonal care needs seem too daunting, just imagine the reward of seeing these gorgeous flowers hanging off a cornstalk.

Orchid growers who keep plants outdoors know that bugs are inevitable. It’s easy to reach for the insecticide, but consider that you’ll kill beneficial insects along with pests. With predators gone, the pest population often returns unimpeded, resulting in an expensive and toxic cycle of chemical use. Without insecticides to interfere, Mother Nature can establish a balanced ecosystem. Beneficial insect predators keep plant eaters in check, and you only need to monitor that your bug-catching workforce is doing the job. In the event of a pest invasion, you can supplement natural predator populations by purchasing ladybugs or beneficial nematodes. If you feel that you need to use chemicals, choose pesticides that only target specific insects, like BT for caterpillars and mosquitoes, so beneficials won’t die with the pests. Let those good bugs stick around, and let Mother Nature work for you.

Since I don’t have any automatic watering systems, that means I have my work cut out for me. With my mister bottle for indoor orchids and a hose for outdoor orchids, I spray down the plants numerous times during the day. It’s more about wetting the leaves and roots than watering the potting material. In addition, I wet down any surfaces, like the wood surface of our deck, so the evaporating water can supplement the meager humidity.

Even some delicate orchid varieties, like this Masdevallia which likes to stay below 75F (24C) all year, can handle the heat as long as there’s good humidity. Fortunately, this hot spell is only forecast to last for the weekend, so the fog can take over again soon. But for now, I have to grab my mister bottle and go…

Also known as the False Ladyslipper, the Stream Orchid is not an air plant. It’s a terrestrial orchid that lives in moist soils along streams, on cliff faces, and in mountain bogs. The plant dies back during winter, and re-emerges from underground tubers the next spring.

Many terrestrial orchids are difficult to grow, requiring highly specialized conditions (yet another reason why you should NEVER remove wild orchids from their natural homes.) However, Epipactis gigantea is relatively easy to cultivate, and adapts to a wide range of conditions. I keep mine in regular potting soil, and keep the pot in a tray of water so it never dries out. It loves a good dose of compost fertilizer, which has helped my plant grow into a vigorous specimen. Certainly it seems right at home.

• Cattleyas
• Cymbidiums
• Dendrobiums
• Epidendrums
• Oncidiums
• Vandas

Take a deep breath and relax. Caring for orchids is much easier than caring for children. With a few basic care tips, you’ll find that most common orchid varieties don’t deserve their finicky reputation. Many are resilient plants that can take some neglect or mistreatment. With some care, they can keep their exotic tropical flowers for extended periods. They may even surprise you and bloom again in just a few months. And once more, you’ll know that special parental pride, maybe similar to when your child brings home an “A” on their report card. So enjoy that orchid gift as a token of love like it was intended, and trust that your maternal skills can allow it to flourish.

This species grows at high elevations  in the Andes of Colombia and Peru. Said to grace the rainforests around Machu Picchu, it thrives with cool temps, regular water, high humidity, and constant air movement. In the past, mine has sulked on hot summer days when San Francisco has lost its air-conditioning fog layer. Fortunately, Dave was able to capture this wonderful flush of blooms on camera before temperatures warmed.

Masdevallia coccinea has been used as a hybrid parent for decades, and its characteristics appear in many modern orchid hybrids. The final photos show flower close-ups and an unopened flower bud with pink and yellow showing through. It’s no surprise that it lends some magic to the Lost City of the Incas.