{"id":9752,"date":"2011-09-16T16:45:25","date_gmt":"2011-09-17T00:45:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/?p=9752"},"modified":"2012-02-03T20:08:36","modified_gmt":"2012-02-04T04:08:36","slug":"fun-phal-fact","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/2011\/09\/16\/fun-phal-fact\/","title":{"rendered":"Fun Phal Fact"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>If your <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/identify\/orchids\/phalaenopsis.html\">Phals, or Moth Orchids<\/a>, aren\u2019t in bloom right now, here&#8217;s a useful, fun fact: 3 weeks of cooler <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/care\/details\/temperature.html\">temperatures<\/a> in early autumn can trigger new flower spikes. Typically, Phals don&#8217;t want temps below 65\u00b0F (18\u00b0C.) To mimic a cool spell in their Southeast Asian homes, let them drop to 60\u00b0F (16\u00b0C) at night, and keep them below 81\u00b0F (27\u00b0C) during the day. After 3 weeks, return them to their regular warm temps. You won&#8217;t notice any immediate changes, but within a month flower spikes should emerge. The spikes can grow for weeks before their blooms open.<\/p>\n<p>Remember that there may be reasons why an orchid isn&#8217;t blooming, and this fun  Phal fact won&#8217;t eliminate the need for <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/care\/details\/light.html\">bright light<\/a>, regular <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/care\/details\/water.html\">water<\/a>, good <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/care\/details\/humidity.html\">humidity<\/a>, and  <a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/care\/details\/fertilizer.html\">fertilizer<\/a>. Normally, cool temps can inhibit a Phal from blooming, but a limited exposure at this time of year can kick them into gear. Then you\u2019ll have great fall colors to enjoy.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/09\/Phalaenopsis_New_Stripes_640px.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9756\" title=\"Phal hybrid\" src=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/09\/Phalaenopsis_New_Stripes_640px-128x96.jpg\" alt=\"Phal hybrid\" width=\"128\" height=\"96\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/09\/Phalaenopsis_New_Stripes_640px-128x96.jpg 128w, http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/09\/Phalaenopsis_New_Stripes_640px-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/09\/Phalaenopsis_New_Stripes_640px.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 128px) 100vw, 128px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If your Phals, or Moth Orchids, aren\u2019t in bloom right now, here&#8217;s a useful, fun fact: 3 weeks of cooler temperatures in early autumn can trigger new flower spikes. Typically, Phals don&#8217;t want temps below 65\u00b0F (18\u00b0C.) To mimic a cool spell in their Southeast Asian homes, let them drop to 60\u00b0F (16\u00b0C) at night, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,6,16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9752","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-growing","category-photos","category-warm-growers"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9752","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9752"}],"version-history":[{"count":31,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9752\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9809,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9752\/revisions\/9809"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9752"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9752"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.aboutorchids.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9752"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}