AboutOrchids

Depending on your local climate, autumn brings shorter days, cool temperatures, and some corresponding autumn chores. As temperatures dip, you’ll need to bring warm growing orchids inside.  Take the opportunity to clean off dead leaves and weeds. Check for pests, paying attention to the undersides of leaves and the potting media. Although I try to keep pesticide use to a minimum, a little prevention now can save a lot of headaches later. I give my orchids a dose of mild insecticidal soap before they come inside.

If you fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer, like 30-10-10, its time to switch to a low nitrogen variety, such as 10-30-30. No matter what kind of fertilizer you use, start to taper off with weaker solution and less frequent doses. Many orchids are beginning to enter a dormant stage. Start to reduce watering for Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Miltonias, Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, and Vandas. This mimics the start of the dry season in their jungle homes, and it’s part of the annual cycle they need to bloom. Maintain good humidity as always, and compensate for the dry air of home and office heating.

If a few lower leaves yellow or drop, don’t panic. Some Dendrobium varieties completely shed their leaves, but they’re just dormant, not dead. Continue to give them good light and humidity, and they’ll spring back to life in a few months.

If your Phals aren’t blooming right now, give them a few weeks of cooler nighttime temperatures. This can cause them to start growing a flower spike. Then you’ll really have some fall color to enjoy.

Explore posts in the same categories: Dormancy, Fertilizing, Growing, Problems, Watering

This entry was posted on Saturday, September 26th, 2009 at 2:23 pm and is filed under Dormancy, Fertilizing, Growing, Problems, Watering.

Subscribe to the About Orchids Blog:

Both comments and pings are currently closed.