AboutOrchids

Autumn’s chill brings changes to orchid care. Check these tips to keep plants healthy.

•  Many orchids begin to enter dormancy in the fall. Start to reduce watering frequency for Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Oncidiums, and Odonts. Begin to cut back fertilizer, too. Moth Orchids, Lady Slippers, and Pleurothallids do not go dormant, but with autumn’s shorter, cooler days, it’s possible to water them less, also.
• Always maintain high humidity and good air flow around orchids. As heaters turn on, they dry the air, which encourages pests. To raise humidity, spray orchids with a mister, and group plants together. Keep pots atop trays of water and pebbles, always keeping the pots completely above the water level. Place plants near water features.
• Bring outdoor orchids indoors before it gets too cold. Take the opportunity to remove dead leaves and flower debris, and check for pests. Many growers spray with insecticidal soap, pesticidal oil, or rubbing alcohol (surgical spirits) before moving plants indoors.
• Increase light levels to compensate for autumn’s weaker sun and shorter days. Move plants into brighter light gradually over two weeks. Even shade-lovers like Phals, Paphs, and Masdevallias can tolerate some direct sun in fall and winter.
• Don’t worry if older, lower leaves turn yellow or die. Continue to give plants bright light and good humidity.
• If Phals aren’t blooming, give them slightly cooler temps for 3 – 4 weeks. Keep them below 80°F (27°C) during the day, and let them drop to 60°F (16°C) at night. After a few weeks, return them to their normal 65°F (18°C) minimum. Healthy plants will start a new flower spike within a month. Cymbidiums also want cooler nights, and won’t bloom if they’re kept too warm in autumn.

Explore posts in the same categories: Dormancy, Fertilizing, Growing, Watering

This entry was posted on Saturday, October 12th, 2013 at 5:00 am and is filed under Dormancy, Fertilizing, Growing, Watering.

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