AboutOrchids

Check out the cover of this great 2011 wall calendar from the Orchid Conservation Alliance (OCA.) I’ve blogged about the OCA’s great work to conserve orchids and their habitats. Now you can support them by buying this beautiful monthly calendar. It’s full of hundreds of photos of incredible scenery from Ecuador’s cloud forests, including lots of orchids.

The calendar is priced for the recession:  just $8 (USA) covers the calendar, taxes, and shipping. To order, make out a check to OCA and mail to:

Orchid Conservation Alliance
564 Arden Dr.
Encinitas, CA 92024

Discounts apply if you buy more than 10 copies of the calendar. You can email the OCA, donate, join, or buy more merchandise including t-shirts and posters by visiting OCA’s website, or calling 760-753-3173.

Why would a Florida biologist grow orchids when he’s trying to rescue panthers? Larry Richardson, chief biologist at the Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge, explains that South Florida’s orchids love wetlands like panthers do. When the wetlands thrive, so do their plants and animals. Richardson says “it’s not much of a stretch likening panthers to orchids. Both are profoundly affected by the supply, quality and distribution of water. Both thrive in woodlands with minimal human disruption. And both have seen their habitat of hardwood swamps, oak hammocks and pine flatwoods shrink as a result of human encroachment.”

Richardson, the University of Florida, and Illinois College have worked together to collect native orchid seeds. They germinate and raise the plants in greenhouses, and then transplant them into the wild. Besides the Florida Panther Refuge, native orchids have also been returned to nearby Big Cypress National Preserve, Fakahatchee Strand, Picayune Strand, and Everglades National Park.

“There’s only one endangered species list,” Richardson said. “Those most endangered are at the top of the list. As those animals become extinct, everything below them on the list moves up a notch. Man’s move to the top is going to be accelerated over time.”

Centuries before the western world became fascinated with orchids, some eastern cultures were cultivating and revering them. For over 400 years, Japanese have grown fuu ran, the “wind orchid.” It’s known in English as Neofinetia, or the Samurai Orchid. This mini species is native to mountainside forests in southern Japan, southern Korea, and eastern China. Japanese nobles and samurai admired its beauty, elegance, and serenity. Over time, its admirers also lent this species the Japanese name fuuki ran, “rich and noble orchid.”

The Samurai Orchid has charming, bird-like flowers, and a rich, sweet vanilla scent in the evening. Its small size, tolerance for cold, and close relation to the Phal and Vanda families make it a popular choice as an orchid hybrid parent. Ascofinetia, Neostylis, and Darwinara are just a few of the hybrids with Neofinetia roots.

Japanese growers have been especially fascinated by the Samurai Orchid’s natural variations in flower colors, leaf colors, and leaf shapes. Typically, the flowers are pure white, but rare color mutations have been discovered and cultivated. Flower forms now come in yellow, green, pink, and magenta. Diminutive green leaves in a fan pattern are most common, but some varieties have leaves with stripes or splotches of color. Others have twisted leaves and even misshapen flowers. The rarest forms can sell for thousands of dollars.

Nowadays in Japan, Samurai Orchids are beloved as cultural treasures, and often grown in moss in traditional bonsai pots. They require shade, frequent water, and warm temps in the summer. During winter dormancy, they need full sun, less water, and cool temps.

Many people are surprised that samurai cared so much for these tiny plants. Best known, of course, for their warrior skills, they also cultivated artistic talents, such as calligraphy, painting, music, or raising wind orchids. My friends and family know that orchids aren’t my only obsession — I’ve been studying Aikido, a Japanese martial art, for over 2 decades. I’m not a samurai, but I am happy to honor this artistic tradition in my training.  I’m especially proud when my Neofinetia blooms, and I can enjoy an emblem of samurai history.

Most people prefer to keep their orchids alive, but some people are dead-set on killing them. If that’s you, then you’ll enjoy this handy list of tried-and-true orchid destruction tips. If you prefer to keep your orchids alive, avoid these common mistakes:

• Overwatering — This is a quick, easy, and common assassination method. Excess water rots the potting media, and eventually suffocates the roots. To speed things up, allow the flower pot to sit in a tray of water. This will quickly cause the orchid roots and potting media to rot. Death within a week. The tray of water and rotting roots may stink and attract flies, so you get a bonus.
• Underwatering — Just forget to water. This method is very effective, however, during winter dormancy it may take months for orchids with pseudobulbs to die. If you’re trying to escape suspicion, you may want to dribble a few drops on the plant. Whatever you do, do not give the plant and potting media a thorough soaking, even if water runs out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. This will greatly delay death by underwatering.
• Temperature extremes — It’ll help to identify your orchid so you know its proper temperature range. Armed with that knowledge, you can be creative. Open a window next to a Phal when it’s near freezing outside. Keep a Masdevallia in a warm kitchen (closer to the stove is better.) Place an orchid next to a heating vent which is blasting hot air. Take a warm grower, like a Vanda, and stick it outdoors in Calgary in February.
• Strong sunlight — While this may have no effect on some varieties like Vandas or Cymbidiums, except to make them bloom, direct sun will burn Phals, Paphs, Masdevallias, and Miltonias. It works best in summer, but may not work at all in winter. Modern car windows filter some sunlight, but the added bonus of the car heating up in the sun can kill an orchid during the time it takes to do a little shopping, or eat lunch. It’s multitasking.
• Low light — This is your best option if you want a very slow death for Phals and Paphs, since they tolerate some degree of low light. For Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, and Vandas, it will be quicker, since they need bright light or full sun to thrive. When you want to kill by low light, find a dark corner, and place the orchid victim in it. Keep it away from any windows. Do not supplement its light in winter. Some orchid varieties may surprise you by lasting for months or even years in low light. Don’t worry; they won’t bloom before they finally perish.
• Stale or dry air — Stale, stuffy air can cause health problems for both people and orchids, so if you choose this method, you probably shouldn’t spend too much time with your victim. Stale air encourages nasty microorganisms and pests, and they’ll overwhelm your orchid eventually. To cut off air movement, lock the plant in an unused room, or overcrowd it with other plants. Keep it away from fans or windows. Dry air will quickly make flowers drop, and wilting leaves will soon follow. Dry air also invites pests, especially spider mites. Do not provide humidity or good air movement, or you’ll drive the pests away. If you don’t have dry air already, heating and air-conditioning systems usually dry the air efficiently.
• Too much fertilizer — A single excessive fertilizer dose can burn an orchid’s roots and leaves, but probably won’t kill it. Rather than the orchid maxim “weakly, weekly,” which teaches that orchids prefer a weak nutrient solution, try “fertilize forcefully.” Heavy doses of fertilizer given at frequent intervals will stop that orchid from ever bothering you again.

This month, every corner of the planet has orchid shows.  Schedules are especially busy across North America, the UK, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. Even if your wallet is thin, you can bring your camera, and take home all the orchids at the show.

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Orchids are providing a valuable perspective on climate change. Dried flowers are kept in museums and herbaria around the globe, and include records of collection dates. A British group of scientists checked specimens up to 150 years old, and found that the Early Spider Orchid, native to southern and western Europe, has been blooming 6 days earlier for every 1.8° F (1° C) spring temperature increase. This rate corresponds to modern scientific observations in the field. Some dried flower specimens date back 250 years, and they add a considerable repository of data for scientific study. Climate change and shifting temperatures endanger orchids because of increased chances of extreme weather, and also the chance that orchids will flower out of sync with their pollinators.

While scientists are finding orchids from the past useful, they’re also planning for the future. Climate change, habitat destruction, and over-collection all endanger wild orchid species. Scientists from around the world recently met in Costa Rica to plan to freeze the orchid seeds of threatened species. As a last-ditch effort , Orchid Seed Stores for Sustainable Use (OSSSU) hopes to build seed banks around the world to prevent the complete extinction of these marvelous plants. Since orchid seeds are minuscule, they don’t even need big freezers. Seeds frozen at -4° F (-20° C) can last for decades. Some seeds can be used to replenish struggling wild populations. It’s good to know that smart people are working to keep rare orchids from disappearing forever. Future generations should be able to enjoy more than a dried or frozen Phal or Lady Slipper.

To celebrate the arrival of fall, here are some garden beauties:

Autumn arrives in the Northern Hemisphere with a chill, shorter days, and some orchid chores. As temperatures drop, bring warm growers inside. Remove any dead leaves or weeds. Check for pests, especially those hiding on the undersides of leaves. I spray orchid plants and potting media with mild insecticidal soap or rubbing alcohol before bringing plants indoors. Many growers use Neem Oil or other insecticidal oils, which have the advantage of protecting leaves for several weeks.

If your Phals aren’t in bloom, cooler nighttime temps can initiate flower spikes. Cymbidiums also respond to cooler nights with new flower spikes. Most varieties won’t bloom if they’re kept too warm at this time of year.

Users of high nitrogen fertilizer, like 30-10-10, should switch to a low nitrogen formula, like 10-30-30. No matter what fertilizer you use, start to taper off with weaker solution or less frequent doses. Many orchids are heading into dormancy. Start to reduce watering for orchids with pseudobulbs, like Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Miltonias, Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, and Vandas. Good humidity is always necessary, especially to counteract the dry air of home and office heating.

If lower leaves turn yellow or drop, don’t panic. Some Dendrobium varieties will completely shed their leaves in the next couple months, but they’re just dormant, not dead. Continue to give them bright light and good humidity, and they’ll come back to life in the spring.

For almost 90 years, the American Orchid Society (AOS) has promoted orchid enjoyment, education, research, and conservation. Now, like many of us, this great non-profit organization is struggling in the slow economy. If you’re not a member already, you can help by joining the AOS. Members receive benefits such as the award-winning magazine Orchids. Along with gorgeous photos, the monthly magazine is full of outstanding articles on a vast array of orchid topics.

Membership perks also include coupons for orchids and supplies, access to extensive online orchid info, discounts at more than 200 botanical gardens, and the satisfaction of supporting the AOS. Orchid lovers, from novices to experts, find AOS membership is well worth the cost.

Dave and I snapped some nice shots at last weekend’s “Orchids in the Park.” This annual exhibition and sale, courtesy of the San Francisco Orchid Society, is held at the County Fair Building in Golden Gate Park. The impressive blooms included a large yellow Paph, a harlequin Phal, and an unusual Dendrobium.

Orchids in the Park is a pint-sized version of San Francisco’s much larger winter show. There may be fewer orchids, but the quality of the blooms remains very high. For example, look at this extraordinary Butterfly Orchid (an Oncidium relative,) elegant white Brassavola flowers, and eye-popping Epidendrum.

Even a small event showcases the incredible diversity of the orchid family. With plenty that’s colorful and curious, there are orchids for every taste. Many hybrids and species are as easy as a day in the park.

With the incredible size and diversity of the orchid family, surprises abound. So when basic orchid care info says that orchids are epiphytes, or air plants, keep in mind that there are exceptions to the rule. Some orchid varieties are terrestrials, or ground orchids, and grow in soil. Terrestrials grow in forests, meadows, grasslands, marshes, and alongside streams and rivers. While most commonly sold orchids are epiphytes, there are also many terrestrial varieties.

• Cymbidium
• some Dendrobium varieties
• some Epidendrum varieties
• some Lady Slipper varieties
• Arundina
• Spathoglottis
• Sobralia
• Jewel Orchids like Ludisia and Malaxis

Almost all orchid varieties outside the tropics, in climates ranging from temperate to frigid, are terrestrials. They have thick roots, tubers, or pseudobulbs, and go through a dormant period when they drop their leaves.

• Bletilla
• Epipactis
• Orchis
• Pleione
• Pterostylis
• Thunia

Some varieties need special soil conditions, but others, like Bletillas and Cymbidiums, can grow in regular garden beds. Most enjoy frequent waterings during their growing seasons. Repot terrestrials in fresh soil every 2-3 years. And don’t be surprised when orchids don’t always follow the rules.