AboutOrchids

Welcome to a new blog category for “Growing Orchids in San Francisco” with info of interest for the Bay Area. Some old posts fit the new category, too, so I’ll go back and re-label those with local relevance.

This post is the first half of a list of orchids I’ve grown outdoors over the years, with a few notes added. They’re all cool or intermediate growers, befitting San Francisco’s mild, foggy climate. Most have survived an occasional hailstorm, and we’ve managed to protect them from our rare winter freezes. For fellow gardeners in Sunset climate zone 17 where microclimates rule, you may find varieties that will work outdoors for you. The second half of this list will follow in a future post.

• Ada aurantica grows and blooms reliably every spring.
• Arpophyllum giganteum flowers dependably every fall. A few seed capsules appear each year.
• Bletilla striata grows and blooms reliably every spring.
• Chondrorhyncha lendyana flowered well, but died after repotting. I believe it prefers to be mounted.
• Cochlioda vulcanica grows and blooms faithfully every fall. Flowers often last through the winter into spring.
• Coelia bella was a new purchase last year, and flowered nicely for the first time last winter.
• Coelogyne mooreana grows and flowers reliably every summer.
• Cymbidiums guarantee blooms every winter. One of my hybrids has never failed in 15 years, and another blooms a second time in spring.
• Cyrtochilum macranthum flowers dependably with dozens of large blossoms at the end of each summer.
• Dendrobium kingianum and Dendrobium x delicatum grow and bloom reliably every spring, Den. kingianum needs a dry winter, but the Den. x delicatum hybrid can tolerate winter rains and still bloom.
• Dichaea glauca has grown for years but never flowered. I’ve tried it indoors too, without success. It continues to put out new growth each year, so there’s still hope I’ll figure it out.
• Dockrillia striolata didn’t bloom for the first 6 years I had it, but now blooms each spring.
• Domingoa (Nageliella) purpurea has flowered over the past 2 summers.
• Dracula sodiroi flowers sporadically. It might be more reliable if I used purified water instead of tap water, but I’m not set up for that outdoors.
• Encyclia vespa grew and bloomed well for many years. It required full sun.
• Epidendrums flower continuously for years. Keikis of cool-growing varieties turn into large plants within 3 years. The most vigorous type, which may be Epidendrum x obrienianum, is pollinated by local Anna’s Hummingbirds. Seed capsules often form, and seed is viable. Seedlings pop up in nearby bonsai pots, and can grow to flower in 3 years.
• Epipactis gigantea, a San Francisco native, grows and flowers vigorously each summer. Seed capsules occasionally form. It lives in a tray of water all year, even during winter dormancy.
• Helcia sanguinolenta blooms every other year in winter.
• Holcoglossum kimballianum has grown outdoors for 2 years, but not flowered yet. It lives indoors over winter.
• Laelia anceps thrives and blooms 2 or 3 times each year.
• Lemboglossum majale has only flowered once over the years. It may prefer warmer nighttime temps than we have.

When I think of Santa Barbara, I think of Cymbidiums. Recently Dave traveled there for work, and he found plenty to photograph at the Santa Barbara Orchid Estate (SBOE). With 5 acres (2 hectares) of gardens in a mild coastal climate, it’s no surprise that Cymbidiums thrive there.

But Cymbidiums are only part of the story. Since 1957, SBOE has offered a wide range of orchids for sale, including many of their own hybrid creations. Their emphasis is on temperature-tolerant orchids which can grow outdoors in much of the country. Besides Cymbidiums, SBOE has many tropical varieties with electric colors, like the Dendrobium and Vandas below.

SBOE’s decades of orchid expertise shines through in these photos. Visitors are always welcome to enjoy the estate, browse their huge collections of hybrids and species, and ask orchid care questions. Their gardens also includes palms, aloes, succulents, and many rare plants. Can’t get to Santa Barbara? They’ll ship orchids around the country.

How could the world’s most delicious orchid taste sour? Vanilla crop failures around the tropics are driving up prices for the beans. The world’s second most expensive spice (after saffron) is notoriously difficult to cultivate, and its cost is rising. Vanilla yields have fallen in India and Mexico by as much as 90% this year, leaving growers in Madagascar and Indonesia to fill the void. News of the poor crop has already lead to hoarding by speculators. Vanilla prices have jumped 20% in the past couple months, and ice cream prices may increase 10% as a result. Other vanilla products, from sweets to perfumes to medicines, will also feel the pinch. Synthetic vanilla, or vanillin, is a common substitute, and is unaffected by this shortage. Fortunately, this crisis doesn’t appear as severe as 2003’s, after a cyclone damaged the crop in Madagascar and prices soared into the stratosphere. But for those who want real vanilla beans, this current crisis will reach into your wallets.

It would be nice if you never had to repot your orchid, but you do. To understand why, consider how these orchids grow high in the trees at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. This is how many orchids live in the wild. Their roots may grow in moss or rainforest debris, but mostly they’re exposed to the open air. In contrast, when old potting material breaks down in a container, air cannot circulate around orchid roots.

Without good air flow, roots cannot breathe, and the plant quickly dies. That’s why orchids need repotting, usually once every 2 – 3 years. Spring is the ideal time, since new roots will be happiest growing into new bark or moss. So don’t dread those repotting chores. Think of them as giving a breath of fresh air to your orchids. Check these helpful repotting tips, including how to know if your orchid needs repotting.

April brings orchid shows in every hemisphere. Sydney, Budapest, Chicago, and Houston are hosting big events. The Toronto Artistic Orchid Society emphasizes traditional Chinese orchids, but grows many modern varieties, too. All are welcome to their show.

Read the rest of this post »

When I first bought this unusual Japanese species at Pacific Orchid Expo 2009, I didn’t know if I could grow it. My purchase consisted of 3 tiny Orchis tubers, each smaller than a pea. Along with planting instructions for this mini terrestrial, the vendor included its Japanese name, uchouran, meaning “butterfly wing orchid.”

I planted the tubers, and 2 of them grew and bloomed well for a couple years. Then I lost one when it turned to mush in a heavy winter rain. The sole remaining plant grew, but had only a single feeble flower last summer, so I wasn’t surprised when it didn’t live through the winter. Happily, the flowers survive in photos.

At this year’s Pacific Orchid Expo, I had an opportunity to talk to the vendor again, and explained how the Orchis had done well for a couple years, but then died off. He answered that they’re difficult to cultivate, often short-lived, and most of his were gone now, too. I felt a bit redeemed that I’d learned how to grow this uncommon species, if only briefly. Then I asked if he had any more for sale. They’d be worth another attempt, not just for the blooms, but to try to keep them alive longer. He didn’t have any, but I’m keeping my eyes open.

As we enjoy the sun’s ascent and longer daylight hours with spring, it’s time to move orchids from their brighter winter homes into shadier areas. Don’t wait until leaves turn yellow or sunburn. Since different orchid varieties need different light levels, consider what each requires for their spring and summer home. Many types, like Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Oncidiums, and Vandas, will enjoy morning sun. Phals, Paphs, and Masdevallias may tolerate some morning sun, but are best in shadier locales. Give orchids enough light to keep their leaves a light green color. Dark green leaves may mean there’s too little light for blooms.

This year, unusually warm temps in much of North America and Western Europe even have experienced growers keeping an eye on leaf color. Relying on spring moving dates from past years may not work, since the warmth can contribute to earlier sunburns. At the first sign of leaf yellowing, find some shade.

To celebrate spring’s arrival, here are some flora and fauna pictures from our recent visit to Strybing Arboretum in Golden Gate Park. We didn’t see any orchids, but we did find a few of the garden’s other natural wonders.

For much of the country, winter has hardly made an appearance. San Francisco’s weather has been milder and drier than usual. Fortunately, much-needed winter rains have finally made an appearance this month. A hard-working honeybee can look forward to many more flowers, and the blooms and the warmth of the season are just beginning.

When it comes to fertilizing, a good rule of thumb is to feed orchids “weakly, weekly.” Orchids do best with a weak fertilizer solution given weekly during spring and summer. It’s common to use ¼ – ½ the strength recommended on the package label. A dilute fertilizer solution mimics how orchids obtain nutrients in the wild, usually in small doses. It also avoids problems caused by too much artificial fertilizer. Blackened roots or black leaf tips are typical signs of overfeeding. When orchids are emerging from dormancy, new growth is especially susceptible to fertilizer burns.

Be sure to flush all orchids with clean water occasionally, at least once a month. This removes fertilizer residues which can build up and cause damage.

Project BudBurst invites you to give science a hand. Since 2007, volunteers have been helping to monitor the climate by recording the first leaves, flowers, and fruits of plant species across the USA. This includes native North American orchids. Scientists use Project BudBurst’s data to understand how climate change affects plant growth, and they make the data public for anyone to use. Volunteering is free, and it’s easy to get started on the Project BudBurst website. Create an account, register your location, and pick a plant to follow. You can contribute a one-time observation for a single plant, or follow lots of plants for several seasons. There are programs for kids and schools to take part as well. Join Project BudBurst to become a citizen scientist, share your garden observations, and contribute to important research.